I’d only been in Kyrgyzstan for four days before I had my first taste of horse milk. Prior to hiking into the mountains, my guide and I rode a pair of horses to a field known for its sweet grass and a particular woman offering fresh milk as treatment for nearly any ailment. Upon arriving, I met a boy who’d been sent to this “health spa” from Moscow by his mother. Warm horse milk, he said, would straighten the chronic stomach aches that had plagued him for years.
Horses, their companionship, their labor, their milk, and even their meat have been held in high esteem by the Kyrgyz for thousands of years, and for good reason. Kyrgyzstan possesses the second-highest average elevation of any country in the world (9,020ft). Its endless layering of mountains and valleys has given Kyrgyzstan the nickname “The Switzerland of the East.” But with this beauty comes the intractable problem of geography.
The valleys that are so lush in summer are inaccessible with snow for most of the year. A nomadic way of life was demanded - lower altitudes in winter, higher altitudes in summer. Horses were needed for this arduous journey and certain characteristics in horses were prized over others. The best horses were those that were short, sure-footed, and possessing endurance enough to manage the long mountain crossings. Over centuries of selective breeding, these horses became known as Kyrgyz Horses.
The niche for these squat horses is narrow and during the Soviet rule of Kyrgyzstan, Kyrgyz Horses, which were tremendously efficient in the mountains, were considered ugly and uncivilized. The Soviets did their best to banish the breed from existence by breeding them with Don and Thoroughbred strains which resulted in larger but weaker horses. The efficiency of the Soviet’s forced breeding program was such that the two million Kyrgyz Horses that lived in Kyrgyzstan at the end of the nineteenth century was reduced to fewer than 80,000 by 2002.
Thankfully, partly because of their continued practicality, the breed is not considered a risk of extinction. Today a breed standard has been drawn up as well.
Beyond the Kyrgyz Horse’s utilitarian usefulness in hauling yurts to mountain valleys, they are also used in a variety of nomadic sports. One of the most popular nomadic sports is Kok boru, a team sport where riders attempt to pick up and then throw a goat carcass into the opposing team’s pit. The game is an intense and thundering sixty minutes. And though tossing a goat carcass (it’s artificial at the professional level) may seem barbaric to the uninitiated, it has to be remembered that rugby was once played with an inflated pig’s bladder.
Kok boru, and the incredible display of horsemanship that it highlights, is a direct link to a past when wars were fought on horses and the Kyrgyz dispelled invading power after invading power. The agility of the Kyrgyz Horse makes it particularly well-suited for a sport demanding such tight maneuvering.
The outsized utility of the horse in Kyrgyzstan means the horse has seeped its ideal into every aspect of life. Sport and mountain crossings are just the beginning. As I wrote earlier, fresh horse milk is said to “cure” a variety of conditions. One pamphlet lists the benefits as such:
Influences the nervous system to treat chronic fatigue and depression
Strengthens the gut to improve digestion
Cures and prevents respiratory illnesses like bronchitis and pneumonia.
Enhances the liver and helps damaged cells recover
Treat skin conditions like eczema and dermatitis
Lowers cholesterol and helps with blood conditions like anaemia
These claims about horse milk’s healing properties, while not scientifically proven, speak to the deep reverence the Kyrgyz people hold for these animals. When I listened to the boy from Moscow describe his hopes for recovery, I couldn’t help but be moved by the faith placed in this ancient remedy.
While less commonly discussed, horse meat is also a significant part of Kyrgyz culinary tradition. When I ran out of beef tins to offer Savannah, I turned to buying the other readily available option - tins of horse meat. Horse meat consumption in Kyrgyzstan is rooted in nomadic traditions, where no part of the animal goes to waste. Today, it remains an important protein source, especially in rural areas. The meat is prized for its lean quality and distinctive flavor.
Known as “kazy,” horse meat sausage is considered a delicacy and is often served at special occasions and festivals. Dishes like “beshbarmak,” a meal made with boiled horse meat and noodles is another favorite.
As Savannah and I traveled, our guide shared stories about the intricate relationship between the Kyrgyz people and their horses. He explained how the animals were not only a means of transportation or a source of milk and meat but also integral to the social fabric of daily life. Horses were given as gifts to cement alliances, are still offered as dowries in marriages, and are commonly used as a measure of wealth and status.
The deep-rooted connection between the Kyrgyz people and their horses extends beyond practical uses into the realm of spirituality and folklore as well. In Kyrgyz mythology, horses are often depicted as noble, intelligent creatures with supernatural abilities. Many traditional stories feature heroic steeds that can fly, speak, or possess wisdom beyond that of humans.
As Kyrgyzstan navigates the challenges of modernization, there’s a growing movement to preserve and celebrate its equine heritage. Annual festivals like At-Chabysh showcase traditional horsemanship skills, while government initiatives aim to protect and promote the Kyrgyz Horse. For visitors like myself, experiencing the multifaceted role of horses in Kyrgyz life – from sipping fermented mare’s milk to packing our horses for another mountain pass – offers a brief window into a culture where the bond between human and horse remains unbroken.
It seems like such a beautiful country and while I was aware of some of the traditions of horses in Kyrgyzstan, it was nice to get your take on it as an outsider visiting.
But you know someone has got to ask about the taste of the milk. Leaving these details out was clearly intentional as that wasn't the true point of the story. So instead of asking for many details, I'll simply ask...would you willingly drink it again?
Following your journey through Kyrgyzstan will always be a favorite. The photos you captured while there are stunning. I hope to visit someday.